Thread Guide: TEX vs. Thread Weight

Thread Guide: TEX vs. Thread Weight | Juki Junkies
Thread Guide

CONFUSED ABOUT
TEX VS. THREAD WEIGHT?

the one chart every sewist should save.

Introduction

If you've ever wondered why 60 wt thread is finer than 40 wt thread — but TEX 70 is heavier than TEX 45 — you're not alone.

Thread weight and TEX are two different ways to describe thread size, but the numbers work in opposite directions. Once you understand the difference, it becomes much easier to choose the right thread for quilting, embroidery, bag making, upholstery-style projects, outdoor sewing, and heavier-duty projects.

Here's the simple version:

Thread weight numbers get larger as the thread gets finer.
TEX numbers get larger as the thread gets heavier.

Two Systems, Opposite Directions

The difference isn't the thread — it's how the numbers work.

Weight System

Used for home sewing, quilting, embroidery & serging threads.

larger number = finer thread

TEX System

Used for industrial, upholstery, outdoor & heavier-duty threads.

larger number = heavier thread

Remember: thread weight and TEX move in opposite directions. That's the trick!

Choosing thread by project

Now that you know how the numbers work, the next step is choosing thread by project.

A quilt, a tote bag, and an outdoor cushion do not all need the same thread. The easiest place to start is what you're making — then choose the thread that gives you the right balance of strength, stitch visibility, and finish.

Thread Starting Points

Start with what you're making, then adjust based on fabric, needle, machine and the look you want.

Helpful places to start — not hard rules.
Colorful quilt

Quilting
& Piecing

40–50 wt

Great for quilting and everyday sewing.

A sewn garment on a hanger

Garments
& Apparel

40–50 wt

Versatile for apparel and everyday sewing.

Machine embroidery design on fabric

Machine
Embroidery

40–60 wt

Choose 40 wt for most designs and 60 wt for finer details.

Sewn tote bags

Bags
& Totes

40 wt / TEX 45

Great for durability and visible stitching.

Serged fabric seams

Serging

50 wt

Great for garment seams, knits, and everyday serging.

Outdoor cushions and furniture fabric

Heavy Duty
& Outdoor

TEX 70 – TEX 90

Great for canvas, outdoor projects, and heavier materials.

These are just starting points. Always test on your actual project layers and adjust as needed.

+ TL Tip

Your Juki TL can handle up to TEX 70

Use the right needle, adjust tension as needed, and test on your actual project layers.

Juki TL-180VP sewing machine with thread spools

Thread choice isn't about the number

it's about your project.
  • Start with your project.
  • Test on your actual layers.
  • Adjust from there.

!